Thomas Reagan, Jr of Georgia is the champion with 431 grape varieties.  He just edged out Michael Mangahas of Maryland who had 419 grape varieties.

Congratulations, Tom!

Update . . . lots and lots of synonyms to check . . . count is going into the night . . .

London, England
Paula Sindberg hosted an incredible tasting of 12 obscure Swiss varieties: Gwass, Resi, Himbertscha, Humagne Blanche, Amigne de Vetroz, Lafnetscha, Petite Arvine, Heida, Eyholzer Roter, Humagne Rouge, Gamaret and Cornalin! Ted Lekas was able to grace us with his presence all the way from Greece.

Miami, Ohio, USA
Charter Member John Keegan hosted a big party that netted 10% of the grapes on the list.

Minneapolis
Kent Benson drinking with Max Riedel. No unusual varieties tasted but Kent convinced the Riedel company to make a dedicated glass for Susumaniello. (word just in: the Susumaniello part is a complete fabrication.)

Thanks again to everyone who participated. If you have a photo from that night that you would like to share, please send it to me at steve@winecentury.com.

159!

Varieties tasted so far (in order of appearance):

1. Viura (synonym: Macabeo)
2. Malvasia (synonym: Malvasia Fina)
3. Grenache Blanc
4. Chambourcin
5. Tinta Roriz (synonym: Tempranillo)
6. Touriga Franca
7. Touriga Nacional
8. Malvasia Istria
9. Refosk (synonyms: Terlano, Teran)
10. Cabernet Sauvignon
11. Merlot 10:40 AM EST
12. Coda di Volpe
13. Regent
14. Negroamaro
15. Primitivo (synonym: Zinfandel)
16. Freisa
17. Feteasca
18. Babich
19. Lasin
20. Plavina
21. Codega
22. Rabigato
23. Donzelinno
24. Viosinho
25. Arinto
26. Falanghina
27. Vermentino di Sardegna
28. Trebbiano
29. Grechetto
30. Montepulciano
31. Cannonau di Sardegna (synonyms: Grenache, Garnacha)
32. Nero d’Avola
33. Sagrantino
34. Incrocio Manzoni
35. Susumaniello
36. Riesling
37. Sauvignon Blanc 2:23 PM EST
38. Grignolino
39. Malbec
40. Norton
41. Syrah
42. Verdelho
43. Chenin Blanc
44. Tinta Cao
45. Tinta Amarella
46. Petit Verdot
47. Petite Sirah
48. Gwass
49. Resi
50. Himbertscha
51. Humagne Blanche
52. Amigne de Vetroz
53. Lafnetscha
54. Petite Arvine
55. Heida
56. Eyholzer Roter
57. Humagne Rouge
58. Gamaret
59. Cornalin
60. Koshu
61. Picpoul (syn: Folle Blanche)
62. Prosecco
63. Tocai Friulano
64. Verdicchia Nera
65. Moscato
66. Nebbiolo
67. Treixadura (syn: Trajadura)
68. Godello
69. Loureira (syn: Loureiro)
70. St. Laurent
71. Cinsault
72. Viognier
73. Negrette
74. Gruener Veltliner
75. Vidal Blanc
76. Assyrtiko
77. Garganega
78. Rousanne
79. Marsanne
80. Pinotage
81. Albarino
82. Pinot Noir 7:56 PM EST
83. Müller-Thurgau
84. Feteasca Regala
85. Dragon Eye (aka Longyan, a native Chinese varietal)
86. White Feather (aka Baiyu, aka Rkatsiteli)
87. Vignoles
88. Muscat Canelli
89. Chardonnay 9:22 PM EST
90. Gamay
91. Mourvedre
92. Cabernet Franc
93. Aglianico
94. Pinot Meunier
95. Carignane (syn: Carignan)
96. Prieto Picudo
97. Vilana
98. Graciano DING DING DING DING!!!!!! Lori puts us over the top at 10:35 PM EST
99. Mazuelo
100. Arinto
101. Moschofilero
102. Harslevelu
103. Kekfrankos (syn: Blaufrankisch)
104. Corvina
105. Covinone
106. Tinta Negra Mole
107. Bukettraube
108. Semillon
109. Muscadelle
110. Grapello
111. Marzemino
112. Barbera
113. Procanico
114. Trincadeira
115. Aragones
116. Souzo
117. Alicante Bouschet
118. Pinot Gris
119. Airen
120. Palomino
121. Pedro Ximenez
122. Mavrodaphne
123. Xynomavro,
124. Agiorgitiko,
125. Carmenere
126. Tannat
127. Pecorino
128. Rondinella
129. Molinara
130. Marselan
131. Auxerrois (the white one and not a synonym for Malbec)
132. Gaglioppo
133. Bosco
134. Albarola
135. Parellada
136. Xarel-lo
137. Lagrein
138. Traminette
139. Edelweiss
140. Vespolina
141. Dornfelder
142. Neuberger
143. Bastardo
144. Mencia
145. Zammarica
146. Verdello Tinta
147. Serodio Tinta
148. Welschriesling
149. Romorantin
150. Obaideh
151. St. Pepin
152. Insolia
153. Teroldego
154. Torrontés
155. Symphony
156. Sangiovese
157. Savagnin
158. Poulsard
159. Trousseau

Deborah and I have kicked off the our 4th Birthday today in London with a 1998 Marques de Murrieta YGAY Rioja Gran Reserva Blanco, a traditionally styled white Rioja. A slightly sherryfied, golden-hued, nutty, complex and delicious wine. It also scored us 3 grape varieties: Viura (synonym: Macabeo) 90%, Malvasia (synonym: Malvasia Fina) 5%, Grenache Blanc 5%.

This evening we’re going to join Paula Sindberg at her giant Swiss wine tasting. We’ll be toasting the anniversary there with Heida (Païen), Cornalin, Resi, Lafnetscha, Gamaret, and Gwäss (obscure Swiss grape varieties!).

Members please mention the wines(s) you’ve tasted today in the comments below. Don’t forget to list the grape varieties in each wine – no matter how small a percentage – so we can update the running total above.

Try to find the name of the grape variety – Mollard – in any book of vine varieties even in those by Pierre Galet and you will be unlucky. It is one of those vines that have almost passed into oblivion. But like the Phoenix, it is now beginning to rise from the ashes thanks to a few dedicated individuals and ENTAV (The National Technical Establishment for the Improvement of Viticulture).

Mollard was well known in the Hautes-Alpes prior to the invasion of phylloxera in the 1870s. At this time the Hautes Alpes had nearly 6000 hectares under vine, today it is under 200. For Mollard the decline has been even worse; even as late as 1958 there were still nearly 300 hectares grown in this French Department. Currently there are just 25 hectares under cultivation.

Its origin is the Hautes-Alpes (05) and it is believed to be a mutation from the Goulais Blanc. Mollard is a red skinned variety vitis vinifera that adapts itself well to the cooler climates of the Alpes. (Embrun is over 860 metres and Gap 740 metres above sea level). Back in 1868 Dr. Guyot in his book “Studies on French Grape varieties” stated “I find it (Mollard) fresh, with moderate alcohol, a good garnet colour and easy to drink. It is somewhere between a Mondeuse (Savoie) and a Gamay Noir (Beaujolais) in terms of aroma.”

The characteristics of this vine are:
1. Its ability to adapt itself to the soil conditions and the climate of this mountainous area and in the rift valley of the River Durance.
2. It is late in bud-break, thus avoiding many of the problems of late spring frost and snowfalls.
3. It ripens fairly late in the season, loving the long warmish autumn days.
4. It is only a little sensitive to coulure and is easily treated against both oidium and mildew.
5. The bunches are close knit and most commonly almost cylindrical, whilst the berries are of medium size and round in shape.
6. The wine produced is rich, with aromas black plums, a little tar, and some earthiness. (The term used locally is ‘rustique’).
7. The younger vines produce grapes that are well suited to the production of the ‘Vin de l’Année’ wines, whist the grapes from older vines produce wines that are best drunk after 2 – 4 years.

Marc Allemand of Domaine Allemand in Theus (05) in collaboration with ENTAV has just completed a 10 years study on this old vine. 2005 saw the beginning of the results of this study with the acceptance of a ‘mother vine’ with which to produce grafts to begin the preservation of the species. Two of the dozen or so clones were accepted by ENTAV and in 2007, 2000 ‘new’ vines were produced – most of which have been planted in his own vineyards. The production is guaranteed as ‘virus free’. In 2009 it is hoped that a ‘small’ number of grafted vines will become available commercially.

Speaking with Marc Allemand he told me, “I started getting the ‘bug’ about Mollard when I was still at school, and it developed further when I joined my farther after graduation. It has become my second ‘wife’, what with all the meetings, discussion groups, seminars etc. that it was necessary to attend to get as far as we have done until now. My greatest joy is that now ‘Cepage Mollard’ is allowed to be stated on my Vin de Pays wine label for my ‘vieilles vines’ red wine, I am currently the only one but it will not be long before a few of my fellow Vignerons will follow. There is another grower in the next village also producing a 100% Mollard wine.”

Question – “What do see as the future for Mollard?”

Answer – “It is an ideal grape variety for those wishing to produce red wines in the cooler climates of the world. It is certainly nowhere near as temperamentally difficult, shy bearing, or as prone to mutation as the pinot noir. Being virtually unknown it offers a new choice to both producer and, hopefully, consumer. Mollard is already being regarded with interest by the Swiss, and in a small way by other small northern producing countries who wish to offer something different to the cabernets, merlots, syrahs and grenaches. But my main interest is in the preservation of ancient varieties that can produce quality wines. So many have already been lost and our ‘big brother’ in Bruxelles is not easy to convince that some tiny varieties of anything are worth retaining. I am also a qualified distiller producing spirits from both grape pomace and fruit ‘eaux de vie’ so I understand it from both the vine and fruit grower’s point of view”.

Question – “Could this be another viognier?”

Answer – “I would love it to be, but somehow I don’t think so. For Mollard there are too many attributes that are similar, some in a tiny way, to other red wine varieties. But with more countries further north in Europe, perhaps Canada and higher regions in Chile and Argentina, and others in hilly regions, wanting to produce red wines with a difference, hopefully there may be a few that will give the Mollard a chance.”

Question – “Is anything being done to publicize the Mollard and its acceptance?”

Answer – “A film, due for release in late October in French, has been made about the vine varieties of the Hautes Alpes. Part of the film was shot here in my vineyards. I will ensure you are invited to its premiere”.

Question – What date and what is the quantity and quality of the 2008 harvest?

Answer – “The best example I can show you is where I have three ages of Mollard in a small parcel of wines at Espinasses (the next village). Harvest will be later than usual as we have not had a great deal of sun (unusual for the valley). The Mollard has lived up to its reputation of not having too many problems with rot and I have done only a limited amount of spraying. The quantity is around average and the quality – good to very good – if we get some late afternoon sunshine. The vintage will start in early October.”

Visiting the one remaining wine co-operative in the Department at Valserres (05), I enquired of the new manager, M. Millot, a young graduate oenologist from Montpellier, if any of the members produce a listed Molllard wine. He told me, “At present there is only one co-operative producer in the Hautes Alpes, producing a 100% Mollard wine, the rest of the members only have tiny amounts of Mollard remaining, so therefore it is it blended into our Vin de Pays des Hautes Alpes rouge.

The one area where there is the opportunity for expansion of Mollard wines is in the growth of the ‘all the year round’ tourist market, but are the ‘powers in office’ capable (or willing)’ to back the small vineyard industry of this department, or will the French anti-drink lobby fire another shot in the foot of the country’s wine industry?

Article and photographs copyright Grahame Martin.

We’re now 590 members strong and growing!

This year, instead of our annual shindig in New York City, we’re going to celebrate online in recognition of the international nature of the club (not to mention the massive global financial meltdown).

Wherever you may be, please raise a glass of something interesting and delicious on May 7th in honor of the club and the glory that is you.  Bask in grapeness, recite the sacred oath and if at all possible please post a short note about the wine you had here.  The note can be as simple as the name of the wine and its grape variety(ies).

It would be amazing if we could collectively taste 100 or more different grape varieties that day.  It would be more amazing if we could taste over 200 in honor of the newly minted Doppel Members.

If you happen to be in London, England on May 7th, please join me, Deborah De Long and Paula Sindberg at Paula’s giant Swiss wine tasting. We’ll be toasting the anniversary with Heida (Païen), Cornalin, Resi, Lafnetscha, Gamaret, and Gwäss(yes, these are grape varieties!).  To sign up, please contact Paula.

Swiss Wines – Grape Varieties You’ve NEVER Heard Of
Date – 7 May 2009 (Thursday)
Venue – Bacchus & Comus, 57 Pelham Street (private home), London SW7 2NJ
Time – 6:30 – 8:00 pm
Cost – £40/person – sorry but Swiss wines are expensive!

This tasting will feature 12 (!!) unique grape varieties that you’ve probably have never heard of so it’s a real opportunity to add to your grape variety “life list”.
All these wines are rare and seldom made anywhere, even in Switzerland. Most are from the Valais, that beautiful valley along which the Rhône River flows on the way from to Zermatt. The tiny producers here make some outstanding wines. The wines aren’t cheap but, then, what is in Switzerland. So to experience the pleasures of Heida (Païen), Cornalin, Resi, Lafnetscha, Gamaret, and Gwäss, among others, join us on 7 May. Book & pay in advance to secure your place.

~Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., CSW
Grand Cru Classes