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Le Grand Prix du Cépage
Monday, May 17th, 2010

We’re currently 779 members strong, with 28 doppel members, 5 treble members and one quattro member. While membership is increasing dramatically, more and more members are continuing their quest to Doppel levels and beyond.

To honor this sense of adventure and crazed obsessiveness, I am announcing a contest and award for the most grape varieties tasted by any one member: Le Grand Prix du Cépage!

Entries are due November 12, 2010 5PM EST and the winner will be announced on November 15th.

A big help in the quest for Doppel+ membership is the expanded application and database developed by Dr. Thomas Mercer-Hursh. You can find both on his site, A Muse in the Cellar.


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Our 5th Birthday – Events Around the World
Monday, May 17th, 2010

Washington DC

Our event went really well this weekend- there were 52 people and everyone seemed to enjoy themselves.

Wines Tasted:

Vilarnau Cava Brut NV, (Penedes, Spain) [Macabeo, Xarello, Parellada]
Gran Sarao Cava Rose NV (Penedes, Spain) [Trepat]
Conde Villar Vinho Verde Branco Seco 2008 (Minho, Portugal) [Loureiro, Trajadura]
Quinta do Crasto Douro 2007 (Douro, Portugal) [Gouveio, Roupeiro, Cercial, Rabigato]
Txomin Etxaniz, Getariako Txakolina 2009 (Basque Region, Spain) [Hondarrabi Zuri]
Colli di Lapio di Romano Clelia Fiano Di Avellino 2009 (Campania, Italy) [Fiano Di Avellino]
Benito Ferrara Greco Di Tufo 2008 (Campania, Italy) [Greco Bianco]
Palazonne Terre Vineate Orvieto Superiore 2009 (Umbria, Italy) [Grechetto, Procanico]
Gini Soave Classico 2008 (Veneto, Italy) [Garganega]
Huber Zweigelt 2007 (Traisental, Austria) [Zweigelt]
Zantho St. Laurent 2006 (Burgenland, Austria) [St. Laurent]
De Angelis Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio Rosso 2008 (Campania, Italy) [Piedirosso]
El Castro de Valutille Mencia Joven 2007 (Bierzo, Spain) [Mencia]
Cavallotto Freisa Bricco Boschis 2006 (Langhe, Piedmont, Italy) [Freisa]
La Colombaia Valpolicella Ripasso 2007 (Veneto, Italy) [Corvina, Rondinella]
Cantina Anotonia Caggiano Irpinia Aglianico “Tari” 2007 (Campania, Italy) [Aglianico]
Summers Winery, Villa Andriana Vineyard Charbono 2005, (Napa Valley, Calistoga, CA) [Charbono]
Warre’s White Port NV (Pinhao, Douro, Portugal) [Arinto, Codega]

New York


Seated: Greg dal Piaz From Left standing: Greg Kozar, Peter Conway, Steve Raye, Constance Chamberlain, Karen Page, Andrew Dornenburg and Tony Fletcher.
Not pictured: Anatoli Levine

Here are the grapes we tasted:

Narince, Kalecik Karasi, Zierfandler, Dolomiti, Osalecta, Muller-Thurgau, Riesling, Silvaner, Kerner, Plousard, Romorath, Faire Sevedou, Moscofilero, Assyrtiko, Aidani, Agiorgitiko, St Laurent, 3 different types of muscat, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Touriga, Pinot Noir and Viognier, and a port (we don’t know how many grapes!)

That’s at least 30 for us! : )
-Constance Chamberlain

Also, check out Tony Fletcher’s excellent post on the event:

Grape Wines (not your usual suspects)

London


Paula Sindberg and our sole Quattro member, Tom Reagan Jr.

Paula Sindberg’s Weird & Wonderful Tasting was great fun – Paula usually scores with the goods and this was no exception. It was also a special treat that Tom Reagan, our current grape champ with 426 varieties, came to the event from Atlanta with a couple of very interesting wines.

There were lots of obscure grapes, but the two that stood out for me were the Jacky Preys 2007 Cuvée de Fié Gris Vielles Vignes “Terroir Pierre à Fusil” Touraine (white grape variety: Fié Gris) and the Lorenzo 2005 “Vigna Paradiso” Lacrima di Moro d’Alba (red grape variety: Lacrima). Not only were they new grapes for me, they were deliciously interesting wines. The Fié Gris was vaguely reminiscent of Loire Sauvignon Blanc, but with gun flint and nettles. The Lacrima di Moro was a big red powerful red, very aromatic and herbal – almost like vermouth/Campari – very unique and charismatic. Interestingly enough, several tastings throughout the world had Lacrimas – I could be the next must try red from Italy, a little like Sagrantino.

Here’s a list of all of the wines that we tasted:

Le Petite Chambord 200 Cour-Cheverny (white variety: Romorantin)
Ameztoi 2009 Txakolina de Getaria (white variety: Hondarribi Zuri and a little red Hondarribi Beltz even though the wine was white)
Chateau de la Mirande 2008 Picpoul de Pinet (white variety: Picpoul)
Ciu’ Ciu’ 2008 Offica Pecorino “Le Merlettaie” (white variety: Pecorino)
Cantina Valle Isarco 2006 Sudtirol Kerner (white variety: Kerner)
Domaine Jacky Preys 2007 Cuvée de Fié Gris Vielles Vignes “Terroir Pierre à Fusil” Touraine (white grape variety: Fié Gris)
Domaine Berthoumieu 2008 Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec Vieilles Vignes (white grape varieties: Gros Manseng, Courbo & Petit Manseng)
Afros 2008 Vinhão Vinho Verde Tinto (red grape variety: Vinhão)
Cos 2008 Frappato (red grape variety: Frappato)
Orovela 2004 Saperavi Rouge Georgia (red grape variety: Saperavi)
Les Cretes 2006 Torrette (red grape varieties: Petit Rouge, Mayolet, Tinturier and Cornalin)
Tiger Mountain 2006 TNT Georgia USA (red grape varieties: Touriga Nacional & Tannat)
Fattoria San Lorenzo 2005 “Vigna Paradiso” Lacrima di Moro d’Alba (red grape variety: Lacrima)
Clos Lapeyre La Magendia de Lapeyre (white grape variety: Petit Manseng)


Hong Kong

We were about 30 people, all very very much like the concept. We held the event in a wine bar called tastings (www.tastings.hk) which is a special place in that it prominently features enomatic machines and have 40 labels on offer at anyone time. We charged hkd 250 to each participant and this included a hkd 200 sampler card as well as some snacks. We had 3 distributors sponsor some wines and some participants were so eager that they also brought some unusual wines to taste. We plan to hold even every second month and most likely tastings will be the place to meet. our goal is to be informal and casual and offer anyone a chance to learn and go off the beaten path. We will emphasise grapes but also wines from unusual regions like China, Thailand, India, and the like. In the evening, we confirmed the following members:

Nellie Lee (co-founder)
Ron Taylor
Ian Symonds
Agata Meuti
Paolo Fassina

with myself, it means the we are now 6 members in hong kong!

JC Viens

Here is a list of wines tasted:

France Loire 2007 Laporte Pouilly Fume Les Duchesses Sauvignon Blanc
New Zealand Marlborough 2008 Fromm La Strada Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc
Italy Venezia 2006 Jermann Pinot Grigio Pinot Gris
France Loire 2008 Lune D’ Anjou Chenin Blanc
USA Shanxi 2008 Grace Vineyard Symphony Muscat
Australia Clare Valley 2009 Crabtree Hilltop Riesling Riesling
France Alsace 2004 Willy Gisselbrecht Gewurtztraminer Gewurtztraminer
France Burgundy 2005 Domaine Bouchard Puligny Montrachet Chardonnay
Thailand Monsoon Valley Malaga Blanc, Colombard
USA Santa Barbara Cambria Tepusquet Viognier
France Côtes Du Rhône Guigal Crôzes-Hermitage Blanc Marsanne, Roussanne
Lebanon Bekaa Valley Chateau Ksara Chardonnay Chardonnay
Italy Toscana Guicciardini Strozzi Vernaccia Di San Giminiano Vernaccia
Italy Friuli Movia Ribolla 2006 Ribolla Gialla
REDS
France Burgundy 2007 Nicholas Potel Vosne Romanee Vielles Vignes Pinot Noir
France Burgundy 2006 Michel Magnien Gevrey Chambertin Aux Echezeaux Pinot Noir
Australia Mornington 2007 Ten Minutes By Tractor 10X Pinot Noir Pinot Noir
USA Santa Rosa 2007 Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir Pinot Noir
USA Oregon 2007 Soter North Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir
France Rhone 2006 Perrin & Fils Gigondas Le Gille Grenache, Syrah
France Rhone 2001 Pierre Usseglio Chateauneaf Du Pape Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre
France Rhone 2006 Michel Ogier Cote Rotie Syrah, Viognier
Australia Clare Valley 2004 Pauletts Andreas Shiraz Syrah
Australia Adelaide Hills 2005 Chain Of Ponds The Ledge Shiraz Syrah
South Africa Paarl 2004 The Foundry Shiraz Syrah
Argentina Mendoza 2006 Finca Flichman Paisaje De Tupungato Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
Spain Utiel Requena 2005 Aranleon Solo Bobal, Tempranillo, Syrah
Chile Cachapoal Valley 2006 Santa Ema Amplus One Carmenère, Syrah, Carignan
Portugal Alentejo 2004 Callabriga Reserva Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro, Alicante Bouschet
Lebanon Bekaa Valley 2001 Chateau Musar Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Cinsault
Italy Tuscany 2006 Ferruggini Bolgheri Rosso Sangiovese
Italy Umbria 2005 Lamborghini Campoleone Sangiovese, Merlot
Italy Piedmont 2000 Gianfranco Alessandria Barolo Nebbiolo
USA Napa 2007 Napa Cellar Merlot Merlot
Australia Adelaide Hills 2002 Uleybury AP Reserve Merlot Merlot
Australia Barossa 2004 David Franz Georgie’s Walk Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon
USA Napa 2005 Krupp Brothers Veraison Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvigon, Merlot, Malbec
USA Napa 2005 Fisher Coach Insignia Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon
Australia Barossa 1997 Penfolds Grange Shiraz Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon
USA Napa 2005 Opus One Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
USA Napa 2000 Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon
France Pauillac 2004 Haut Bages Liberal Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot
France Margaux 2003 Chateau Lascombes Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot
France St Emilion 1997 Chateau Pavie Macquin Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
France St Emilion 2002 Chateau Pavie Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
France Pauillac 1995 Chateau Mouton Rothschild Cab Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot
USA Napa Valley La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Franc Cabernet Franc
Italy Umbria Lungarotti Rubesco Rosso Di Torgiano Sangiovese, Canaiolo
USA California Edmeades Mendocino Zinfandel Zinfandel
Italy Piedmont Michele Chiarlo Barbaresco Nebbiolo
Lebanon Bekaa Valley Chateau Ksara Le Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon, Arinarnoa
Lebanon Bekaa Valley Chateau Ksara Cuvée Du 3e Millenaire Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah
Lebanon Bekaa Valley Chateau Ksara 2004 Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot
Italy Emilia Romagna Macchiona IGT Barbera, Bonarda
Italy Piedmonte Icardi Suri Vigin Brachetto Brachetto D’Acqui
Italy Toscana Titolato Morellino Di Scansano DOC Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo
Italy Marches La Crima Di Morro D’Al ba Selection Rubjiano Lacrima Di Morro

Redwood City, CA (SF Bay Area)

Last night, we toasted the Century Club at Savvy Cellar Wine Shop and Wine Bar in Redwood City, California. We tasted 3 different wines: a Bugianen Freisa d’Asti from Domenico Capello, a Castello di Verduno Pelaverga, and a Blaufrankisch, whose producer escapes me. I thought the Freisa might be tasted by someone else, but I was pretty sure the Pelaverga would not be on your list – amazingly, I guess someone tasted it last night. As of right now, a brief look through the list doesn’t reveal that anyone tried a Blaufrankisch, so maybe that’s our winning contribution!

-Marni Rubin

Hendersonville, NC

The French Broad Chapter in Hendersonville enjoyed the following on The Anniversary.Trebbiano de Lugana, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zin. Barbera, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouchet, Falanghina, Chenin Blanc, Sauv. Blanc, Viognier, Marsanne, Malvasia Bianca, Orange Muscat, Muscat Canelli, Vignoles, Chessalas.

Keith Dalbec

Milton, DE

WE JUST FINISHED OUR TASTING FOR THE FIRST STATE COASTAL CRU IN DELAWARE AND WE CAN ADD THE KLEVENER DE HELIGSTEIN GRAPE FROM ALSACE ONE, WE ALSO HAD A BOTTLE OF GODELLO FROM MONTENOVO AND SOME OF US STARTED OFF THE DAY WITH A BOTTLE OF BACCHUS FROM ENGLAND. WE ALSO SIGNED UP 27 NEW FUTURE MEMBERS. HAVE A GREAT YEAR!

-Bernie Knowllinger

Aiken, SC

The Aiken, SC Wrath of Grapes chapter of the Wine Century Club had an impromptu meeting of four members. The evening started with Ironstone Vineyards SYMPHONY 2005 paired with pimento cheese spread. The next course was bacon-wrapped shrimp, accompained by Perrier Jouet NV Brut (assumed to be PINOT NOIR & CHARDONNAY with other grapes in too small a percentage to take credit for). The meal of pork loin medallions in mushroom sauce was paired with Picchetti TEROLDEGO 2007 and Linne Calodo “Cherry Red” 2007 (ZINFANDEL, MOURVEDRE, SYRAH). Dessert was fresh Aiken county strawberries, lightly marinated in Brachetto D’Acqui, accompanied by (of course) Pineto BRACHETTO D’ACQUI DOCG 2007. Dishwashing was made more pleasant with a half bottle of Quady Elysium 2007 (BLACK MUSCAT).

Cheers and Happy Birthday!

Columbus, OH

Happy 5th… here are some more varietals… not adding the ones already reported… Bukettraube (South Africa), Roscetto (Italy – even though the bottle turned out to be corked!), Tocai Friulano, Verdicchio, Traminette… but wait a minute… didn’t anyone have Lambrusco & Champagne( Pinot Meunier) to celebrate the Anniversary?


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314 Grape Varieties in a Day
Tuesday, May 11th, 2010

It’s amazing that we nearly doubled last year’s formidable number of grapes. It’s high time to sit back, take a much needed rest and wallow in the glory that is us.

Here’s the summary in alphabetical order. I’ve pruned as many synonyms out as possible but there may be a few remaining. Some of the varieties listed are probably clones instead of distinct varieties, especially from the 152 grape wine, and will require a closer look. Even so, I think we’ve easily jogged past the 300 grape marker.

Veni Vino Vici!!!

Agiorgitiko Frontenac Picpoul
Aglianico Gaglioppo Piedrosso
Airen Gamay Pigato
Albarola Garganega Pignola Nera
Albarossa Gargiulo Pignolo
Aleatico Gewürztraminer Pinot bianco
Alfrocheiro Godello (syn: Gouveio) Pinot Gris (syn: Pinot Grigio)
Alicante Graciano Pinot Noir
Alicante Bouschet Grechetto Pinotage
Aligote Greco Bianco Plousard
Alphonse Lavallee Grenache Pollera 1
Ancellotta Grenache Blanc Portugieser
Ansonica Grignolino Poulsard
Aramon Grillo Prieto Picudo
Arinarnoa Gropello Procanico
Arinto Gros Manseng (syn: Izkiriota) Prosecco
Arneis Grüener Veltliner Pugnitello
Arrufiac Hondarribi Beltza Quagliano
Aspiran Hondarribi Zuri Rabigato
Athiri Hondarribi Zuri Zerratia Raboso Veronese
Aubun Incrocio Manzoni Rebo Nero
Avanà Italia Refosco da Peduncolo Rosso
Avarengo Kalecik Regent
Bacchus Kalecik Karasi Ribolla Gialla
Baco Noir Kerner Riesling
Barbera King of the North Riesling italico (syn: Welschriesling)
Barbera bianca Kiralyleanyka Riesling Renano
Becuet Kisi Rkatsiteli
Bianchetta Tevigiano Lacrima Di Morro Romorantin
Bianchetta Veronese Lambrusca di Alessandria Rondinella
Black Monukka Lambrusco Maestri Roobernet
Blaufrankisch Lladonner pellut Roscetto
Boal Loureiro Rossese
Bobal Lumassina Rossese bianco
Bombino Bianco Macabeo (syn: Viura) Roter Veltliner
Bombino Nero Maiolica Roupeiro
Bonarda Malaga Blanc Roussanne
Bosco Nero Malbec Roussette du Bugey
Bourboulenc Malvasia Bianca (syn: Malmsey) Rubiana
Brachetto D’Acqui Malvasia di Casorzo Ruché
Brocciola Malvasia di Schierano Sangiovese
Brunello Malvasia Istriana Saperavi
Budeshuri Malvasia nera lunga Sauvignon Blanc
Bukettraube Manzoni bianco Savagnin (from Klevener de Heiligenstein)
Bussanello Marsanne Savatiano
Cab Sauvignon Marzemino Schiava
Cabernet Franc Mauzac Schiava Gentile
Cabernet Pfeffer Mayolet Schiava grossa
Canaiolo Mencia Schioppettino
Canina Merlot Semillon
Cardinal Merwah Sercial
Carica l’Asino Michele Pagliari Sereksiya
Carignan Mollard Seyval Blanc
Carmenère Monica Siegerrebe
Carrucante Montepulciano Silvaner
Casetta Montonico Solaris
Castelao Morrastel Bouschet Souzo
Catarata Moscato bianco St. Laurent
Cataratto comune Moscato giallo Susumaniello
Catarrato Moscato nero di Acqui Sylvaner Verde
Catwaba Moscato Rosa Symphony
Cayuga White Moschofilero Syrah
Cercial Moscofilero Taminga
Cesanese Mourvedre Tannat
Charbono Muller-Thurgau Tempranillo
Chardonel Mune Mahatsa (syn: Folle Blanche) Teroldego
Chardonnay Muscat Blanc Terret Gris
Chatus Muscat Canelli Terret Noir
Chenin Blanc Muscat de Hambourg (Black Muscat) Timorasso
Chessalas Narince Tinta Barroca
Ciliegiolo Nascetta Tinta Negra Mole
Cinsault Nebbiolo Tinto Cão
Cjanòrie Nebbiolo ( Bolla) Tinturier
Clairette Nebbiolo ( Rosè) Tocai Rosso
Coda di Volpe Nebbiolo (Lampia) Torbato
Colombard Nebbiolo (Michet) Torrontez
Colorino Nero Negrette (syn: Negretto) Touriga Franca
Cormalim 1 Negroamoro Touriga Nacional
Cornalin Nerello Mascalese Trajadura
Cornarea Neretta Cinese Traminette
Cortese Neretta cuneese Trebbiano de Lugana
Corvina Neretto di Bairo Trebbiano Toscano
Courbu Nero Buono Trepat
Croatina Nero d’Ala Txori Mahatsa
Crovassa Nero D’Avola Uva di Troia
Dolcetto Neyret Uva rara
Dolomiti Norton Uvalino
Dornfelder Obaideh Valiant
Doux d’Henry Orange Muscat Varousset
Durasa Osalecta Veltlimer Fruhrot
Durasca (Dolcetto di Boca) Oseleta Verdejo
Enanto Palomino Verdicchio
Erbaluce Pampanuto Verduzzo Trevigiano
Falanghina Parellada Vermentino
Favorita Pecorino Vernaccia
Fer Servadou Pedro Ximénez Vespolina
Feteasca Neagra Pelaverga Vignoles
Fiano Pelaverga (di Pagno) Vinhão
Fié Gris Peleverga piccolo Viognier
Franconia Petit Arvine Vranac
Frappato Petit Bouschet Xarello
Freisa Petit Courbou Zierfandler
Friesa di Chieri Petit Manseng (syn: Izkiriota Ttippia) Zinfandel
Friesa di Nizza Petit Rouge Zweigelt
Friulano Petit Verdot


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A Wine with 152 Grape Varieties
Tuesday, May 11th, 2010

That’s 95 more than Heinz’s 57! And in one bottle no less!

Through the generosity of Tom Reagan (our reigning champ with 426 varieties) I was able to try the 2005 Giribaldi Cento Uve Lange DOC a wine that our sole Indian member, sommelier Subhash Arora, has written about.

Obviously this wine poses a problem for the Wine Century Club. Since we allow all the grapes in a blend to count towards our totals, it makes things far too easy – one sip and Bob’s your uncle – wham-bam welcome to the club. Where’s the adventure in that? Something must be done!

I convened an emergency executive committee meeting where we came up with a ruling: the 2005 Giribaldi Cento Uve Lange DOC can not count for initial membership in the club but the grape varieties in it can count towards higher levels of membership (ie Doppel).

Whew!

So how was the wine?

It’s about 50% Nebbiolo which is interesting since Nebbiolo is rarely blended with other grapes and some would say that, like Pinot Noir, it’s a grape that shouldn’t be blended. Initially it was fairly closed and not very interesting, but opened up into a very aromatic and enjoyable wine – floral, roses and violets along with a big splash of Dr. Pepper with cocoa and cherries coming out on the palate. The tannins were abundant and chewy but also drying which would usually indicate that it needs a few more years in the cellar, however in other ways it already seems fully matured. I wouldn’t wait, especially if you’re working on your Doppel level! It was perfect with grilled sirloin.


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Preparations for Christmas
Friday, November 27th, 2009

some-christmas-suggestions

Although most of us will not commence our preparations for Christmas until the beginning of Advent, without doubt we are already being bombarded with the shops and other commercial operations via TV, newspapers, the mail, and the Internet, all trying to attract our attention to but this and that since the beginning of November, and some even earlier.

The preparation for this religious festival and the season of goodwill has changed dramatically since the end of WW2

Then, cakes, puddings, mincemeat, pickles and even decorations were more often ‘home made’ from October onwards with only the final touches left to the week leading up to the ‘big day’. Oh yes, how we of mature years remember! But that is history and unlikely to return.

It is time to look ahead to the festivities in this, the 8th (or is it the 9th.) year of the new millennium. What preparations can we, or should we, be making NOW?
Presents are one of the priorities, but they are more of a personal item. Selection should be left to the individual and the influence of the sales staff concerned and not from the interference of this newsletter. Cards are mainly an Anglo-American habit, but with rising postal costs, postal strikes etc. may well decline this year in favour of the Internet (unless you are a famer in the heart of rural Wales, Scotland or the American outback).

Some of the traditional preparations have been resurrected due to necessity, like the making of the pudding and making of mincement, and even cakes which may be difficult to obtain in some areas. (Recipes are readily available -. The United Kingdom BBC Good Food website is well worth a look)

Possibly the largest headache is in selection of the main course – what to have and with what to accompany it to make a memorable Christmas feast. To cover all the possibilities would need the writing of yet another book on food. Even in Europe, – country, regional and even area variations abound, so where to begin?

This year the proposal is a change from the traditional turkey to – ROAST GOOSE. Goose was the vogue in many parts of the United Kingdom long before turkey was introduced and became commercially available.

This year our suggested Bill of Fare for 2009 consists of:-

Aperitif –
Nuts (salted cashews, peanuts, walnuts or other types of nut), partnered by Brut Champagne NV. It makes the ideal accompaniment but can be expensive. Any Brut Traditional Method (once called Methode Champenoise) is acceptable. A good choice here is Crémant d’Alsace (Chardonnay- Pinot Blanc blend) from France or one of the many Traditional Method Italian sparklers.

Starter
– a choice of two -
1.Fois Gras – ours will be from Alsace and not the traditional South West of France
Accompanied by:-
Gewurztraminer Tradition 2006 – Hugel
Although fairly expensive, an aromatic, rich, spicy, and lasting wine is necessary to accompany the locally produced fois gras from this region.
Website – www.hugel.com (available in English)
or.
2. Oysters -
Accompanied by:-
Gros Plant du Pays Nantais or Muscadet sur lie. My favourites are from Château du Cléray – Sauvion et Fils.
Website.- www.sauvion.fr (available in English)

‘Fat’ oysters – is one of the few dishes that make the highly acidic Gros Plant remotely drinkable. Many people refer to this wine as ‘the nearest thing there is to paint stripper’ It is surprising that when partnering ‘fat’ oysters it is perfect.
With oysters the wine partner must be both dry and fairly acidic. Whilst the Muscadet grape (Melon de Bourgogne) is excellent, Sauvignon Blanc from a cool climate is also very acceptable.

Main Course –

Roast Goose – There are many recipes on offer for making the most of a Christmas goose, but the art of preparing and cooking it is seldom included. Reading the magazine ‘The Poultry Keeper’ a year ago, Melanie Daniels’s article, gave a no fuss, traditional, old fashioned, but simple set of instructions on how to prepare and cook a goose. To her I am very grateful – it works!!! Here it is. The only item missing was the plucking of the bird; my advice – let the supplier do it for you.


Preparation

Goose produces a huge amount of fat and therefore the roasting dish MUST have a draining tray to catch this fat and enable it to be drained off (and reserved) from time to time.
1. Remove the giblets and excess fat from the inside of the bird.
2. Pinch and prick the skin (Do not stab the meat). This helps with the running off of the fat.
3. Rub the skin with sea salt, pepper, and herbs de Provence.
Cooking
As geese come in many sizes, the following instructions are quoted in minutes per kilo (2.25 pounds)
1. Place the prepared bird in a large dish (or double casserole). Place it into the pre-heated oven at 220 degrees C (440 degrees F) for 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Reduce to 190 degrees C (370 degrees F) and cook for a further 25 – 30 minutes per kilo. (This will make for a ‘medium’ cooked bird. If you like the meat ‘well done’ a few more minutes will be necessary).
3. Remove the bird about every 30 minutes and drain off the fat. (The fat should be retained for cooking the potatoes). Baste the bird at the same time.
4. At any sign of scorching, cover that part with foil.
5. At the end of the cooking period, allow to rest for 30 minutes turning the bird upside down to allow for the breast meat to remain moist.

Stuffing and Accompaniments
Keep them simple, roast goose is very rich and is best shown to perfection when not overwhelmed with too many side dishes.
Parsley and thyme stuffing – home made adding in some of the giblets, finely chopped, and a little goose fat to bind. Cook separately from the bird or it may go soggy.
Redcurrant jelly, apple sauce, or whole cooked chestnuts could also be considered.
Finally, (and in my opinion a MUST)
Potatoes – roasted in the oven in goose fat until golden brown.

This is a main dish to satisfy a king.

geoffray-family

Wines to accompany
This is a rich meal; therefore the wines need to have flavour, depth and acidity.

From France – I would suggest –
Brouilly or Cote de Brouilly from the Beaujolais.
Château Thivin en Beaujolais 2006 or 7. Their Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly have all the flavour of the gamay grape plus good acidity. Both are produced on the granitic soils of the area with the Cote having a hint of volcanic heat on the palate. Mount Brouilly is the site of an ancient and now extinct volcano.
The Geoffrey family have been making wines here for 5 generations.
Contact – Claude Geoffrey, 69460 Odenas
Website – www.chateauthivin.com (English available)

or

St. Estephe or Haut Medoc from Bordeaux
Côte de Nuits from Burgundy.
Try to avoid the softer wines from Southern France.
In the United States and Canada, the Pinot Noirs from Oregon and Washington State are highly recommended
From Italy – The Piedmont family of wines from the Nebbiolo grape (Barbaresco, Barolo etc.) or a quality DOC Barbera also pair well with the goose.

Cheese and Dessert

Cheese – If you are having a cheese course, select your cheeses to match the wines chosen to accompany the goose.
Blue cheeses – Stilton and Roquefort are rich and tasty but need to be accompanied with a sweet botrytised wine (or Vintage Port).
The Loire – Coteaux de Layon (again available under the Sauvion label) is not only botrytised but also, with the cooler climate, has better acidity

Dessert – Although many Brits will insist on their Christmas pudding at this stage and continuing with the port, the more weight conscious may prefer fresh fruit to clean the palate.
With the latter and again as a real refresher, the recommendations are:-
Brut or Demi-Sec Champagne
Asti (Moscato grape) from Italy (ideal as it in lower in alcohol – circa 7.5% abv)
Eiswein from Canada or Germany – (pricey, but well worth it – normally in half-bottle)

Digestif
Coffee with Armagnac or a VSOP cognac.

Author’s Note on Availability of Wines

The wines specifically mentioned ABOVE are available in the UK, the USA and Canada, but naturally not everywhere. A quick look at the web for any of them, or at the site of the company itself, may give a satisfactory answer.
As stated in previous articles I prefer to search out my wines from small independent growers, not just from the super- and hypermarkets; the latter cannot be expected to stock lines that may have a production of a few hundred bottles. For example in the Beaujolais alone there are more than 400 producers. Some produce under their own label but the majority sell wine or grapes or both to the ‘larger’ companies throughout the whole of Burgundy. They, in turn, blend the producers wine, or make the grapes to suit their own house style.
This has led to one well known wag of a grower referring to Beaujolais wines blended and bottled in the Cote d’Or around the town of Beaune as BEAUNE-JOLAIS.

From our family to yours wherever you are

Happy Christmas – Joyeux Noel

gm-mucat-or-not


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Bouké Wines of North Fork – Long Island
Thursday, November 5th, 2009

Bouke Wines

lisa-donnesonLisa Donneson, having gained her Wine and Spirit Education Trust Diploma in 2006, set up Bouké wine to promote the wines of Long Island NY. Yes you have it correct – Long Island (NY) wines, – from internationally known vitis vinifera grape varieties. In French terms Lisa became a négotiant – éleveur (a person who buys grapes, – it could be wines, but not in her  case -, for the purpose of making and selling wines under her own name) With many of the French major red and white vine varieties represented (as they are grown commercially in the area around Long Island), what better name for her company than a play on the French word ‘Bouquet’ for the name of her company.

The wine making expertise comes from Giles Martin (no relation to yours truly) who hails from the Rhône Valley in France and honed his expertise with the likes of Roederer and Delas Frères. Together they select the grapes from the local growers and then produce some excellent quality wines.

Due to the complexity (and I put it mildly) of the US state and national wine laws, most of the wines are sold within New York and New York State, although some representation has been negotiated with merchants outside of this region.

Promotion and advertising of her wines is mainly through hotels, restaurants, and specialist functions – often allied to the fashion industry. Full details of these events can be found on her website (www.boukewines.com).

nicole-and-christia-tasting-bouke-red-seot-2009I only wish that I had the opportunity to attend some of these promotions, especially those that are food related. That is not possible as I live in a small village situated in the Hautes Alpes region of France. Lisa and I go back in time to her study days when I was given the task of marking some of her ‘dummy’ essays from past WSET Diploma papers. It was obvious from the research she made before going into print with her essays that it was only a matter of time before she became fully involved with wine. Her strength of character was also indicative of ‘going it alone’ rather than be involved in some multi-national operation.

It is these ‘boutique’ operations that keep variety, quality, and variation in this wonderful world of wine and for those of us that enjoy, without wine snobbery entering the lists, long may it continue. Personally I try to avoid branded wines, produced at a price point, and launched through every major supermarket group.

Tasting Notes on Bouké wines
There are 4 wines currently in the range – a red, a rosé, a white and a white dessert wine that is fortified. By keeping the individual wine varieties separate, the blender can adjust them to suit not only the style of the wine but also the variations in the growing conditions from year to year. It is here that the true ‘art’ of the wine maker comes into its own.

Bouké – White -  2007 – Carefully selected grapes, well blended produce this excellent wine (What a change from just another Chardonnay). The make up here is Chardonnay (of course) but with substantial contributions from Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and to give a hint of spiciness, 7% Gewurztraminer. Faintly aromatic, crisp and well balanced, make this wine  the perfect aperitif. It will also match with poultry and fish dishes, provided the latter is not too bland.

bajun-mutton-curry-sept-2009Bouké Red – 2007 – A blend of the Bordeaux grape varieties with the addition of 15% Syrah. The latter adds depth to the colour and a hint of spiciness and liquorice to the taste. Using the produce of vines around 15 years of age ensures that there is a maturity in the wine from the onset. Full bodied, around 13% by volume alcohol, makes it a perfect marriage with full bodied red meat dishes, and venison. I accompanied it with a mutton, fruit curry with Caribbean vegetables – the recipe based on a traditional goat meat and fruit curry from Barbados (see photo) was accompanied by okra, plantain, sweet potato mash and Basmatti rice.

Bouké Rosé – 2008 – With the huge revival in the popularity of rosé wine, production of such a wine has become a necessity rather than a fad. Bouké rosé combines both accepted methods of producing ‘pink’ wines – purpose made – short term skin contact and the ‘saignée’ (bleeding) method that is so popular in France. (Taking away some of the juice at an early stage allows more colour to develop for the red wines).
Made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – the major constituents of the Bordeaux blend – , Bouké rosé is salmon pink in colour, with soft summer berry fruits on both nose and in the taste. It is an ideal aperitif, but also pairs well with barbecued fish and chicken, crab or fish cakes and the lighter styles of cheese.

Bouquet Dessert Wine – NV
– 17% by vol alc – (37.5cl bottles) – This is a true bit of innovation. Using Gewurztraminer, mellowed with a small percentage of Chardonnay, fortifying the wine to stop the fermentation (Port style) with chardonnay based grape spirit, the result is a delightfully sweet, spicy wine that still retains a crisp acidity (one advantage of the cool temperatures of Long Island).

Ideally, this is a wine to accompany the ‘petits fours’ at the end of the meal, but try it with ‘fois gras’ (if you like it and can get it!)

If you are around the New York area contact Lisa for her list of up and coming events, or ask for your nearest stockist. Failing that, contact Bouké Wines on their website. (www.boukewines.com or email  – lisa@boukewines.com)

Grahame Martin AIWS
October 2009 ©


Posted in Events, Uncategorized
 

Great Wine Dinners in New York City
Thursday, September 3rd, 2009

Members Michael Gitter and Ben Schmerler have helped organize three amazing dinners at three of the world’s greatest restaurants for California Wine Month.  These are not Wine Century Club events but if you’re in New York City Sept. 15th, they’re definitely worth attending.

 

California Wine Dinners at Union Square Hospitality Group Restaurants in NYC

Join representatives from eight different California wine regions on the evening of Tuesday, September 15th in New York City for one of these exciting wine dinners, all held at highly-regarded Danny Meyer restaurants. Learn about regions you know and love—as well as winegrowing areas that may be new to you. Enjoy great California wines paired with phenomenal food and hear from the vintners themselves. Reserve now, as these intimate dinners will sell out fast.

The Modern
Tuesday, September 15, 7:00 PM
The wines of Napa Valley, Mendocino, Amador County, and Lodi
Four courses (including a California cheese course)
Nine wines
$150 per person (not including tax and tip)
Address: The Museum of Modern Art, 9 West 53rd Street (bet. 5th & 6th Aves.) NYC
Reservations: Call 212-408-6645
CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE MENU AND WINES

Eleven Madison Park
Tuesday, September 15, 7:00 PM
The wines of Sonoma County and Santa Barbara
Three courses (including a California cheese course)
Eight wines
$130 per person (not including tax and tip)
Address: 11 Madison Ave. (at 24th St.) NYC
Reservations: Call 646-747-2583
CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE MENU AND WINES

Tabla
Tuesday, September 15, 7:30 PM
The wines of Paso Robles and Monterey
Three courses (including a California cheese course)
Eight wines
$110 per person (not including tax and tip)
Address: 11 Madison Ave. (at 25th St.) NYC
Reservations: Call 212-889-0667
CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE MENU AND WINES


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The Official WCC Motto T Shirt
Thursday, September 3rd, 2009

First it was a way of life, then a motto and now. . . .
a T SHIRT.

Veni Vino Vici T Shirt

Veni Vino Vici T Shirt


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Wine Century Club in the Wine Country Minute
Thursday, September 3rd, 2009

We’re honored to be the 100th article for the Wine Country Minute.

The Wine Country Minute is published 3 times a week and only takes a minute to read! Check it out!


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Another Reason to Wear Your Official Tastevin
Thursday, September 3rd, 2009

Fellow Centurian Hardy Wallace wore his OFFICIAL WINE CENTURY CLUB TASTEVIN in an video interview for a cushy marketing position at Murphy Goode Winery.  He got the job over 1,700 other applicants!  CONGRATULATIONS, HARDY!

He’s obviously a talented and funny guy, but we like to think that the talismanic properties of the tastevin propelled him to victory!

Remember, it can work the other way:  member Randy Boyles lost his OFFICIAL TASTEVIN last May.  Ten minutes later, he caught gingivitis from a chewable toothbrush purchased from a vending machine at Detroit Metro Airport.1 Don’t let this happen to you.
1This is a dramatization based on a true story. The names and facts have been changed to protect the innocent.


Posted in Press, Uncategorized